Air brake systems were first designed to slow trains. Air brakes are used in heavy machinery including semi-trucks, airplanes, trains and buses. Air brakes use compressed air instead of brake fluid for greater stopping power. Driving with or installing air brakes safely will protect you and others near you in transit.

Function

When the vehicle operator applies an air brake, compressed air stored in a limited air supply fires into brake lines and closes the braking mechanism. The longer and harder the brake pedal is applied the more air releases out of the supply system. The air compressor works in conjunction with the engine. An air brake will cease working if the air supply fires air faster than it can store it.

Driving Safety Tips

Inspect your air brake system before and after long journeys. Avoid unnecessary use of the air brakes so the air compressor retains enough pressure to slow the vehicle in an emergency situation. Check the steering brake air line for bulging, pinching and fitting looseness because a compromised air line will create rapid pressure loss.

Installation Tips

When installing air brakes wear clear glasses and gloves for protection. A properly installed air chamber and slack adjuster should not have an angle greater than 90-degrees between each component, as stated by the New Brunswick government. Always install air chambers and slack adjusters of the same size on each axle.

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Rear brake lines on most vehicles are connected to the rubber brake line running to the brake caliper via a tube nut. On the other end of the line is another tube nut connecting the brake line to the proportioning valve. To properly remove the rear brake lines, youll need a special wrench, called a flare nut or "tube nut" wrench.

Instructions

1

Break the lug nuts loose on the rear wheels. Turn the lugs 45 degrees with a tire wrench, but do not unseat the wheel from the wheel hub it is attached to.

2

Raise the vehicle onto jack stands. Place wheel blocks in front of the front wheels.
Jack up on the front lift point behind the radiator and place a jack stand under each of the rear jack points. Then, lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

3

Finish removing the lug nuts and pull the rear wheels off the hub.

4

Place the brake fluid catch pan underneath your vehicles rear brake caliper (the one you will be working on).

5

Slide the flare nut wrench over the brake tubing just behind the tube nut wrench that connects the hard brake line to the rubber brake line.

6

Orient the flare nut wrench so that it fits over the end of the tube nut.

7

Place an open-end wrench underneath the tube nut on the fitting for the rubber brake line.

8

Remove the protective retainer clip on the rear brake line to the brake hose bracket with a pair of pliers.

9

Hold the open-end wrench still and turn the flare nut wrench counterclockwise to remove the brake line.

10

Pull the brake line off the brake hose.

11

Follow the line to the connection underneath the hood.

12

Remove the brake line to proportioning valve connection with the flare nut wrench. The proportioning valve is a small valve with many brake lines connected to it. The exact location will vary depending on your vehicle.

13

Pull the brake line off the proportioning valve.

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Everybody wants to save fuel, but therere lots and lots of incorrect advices I found on local and international motorcar forums on how to do it. Some of em make no difference, and some even worse! Dont know from where they got those advices - Im sure not from their own experiment/experience. Some of the advices defy the laws of physics [and thermodynamics].

The following are a bunch of wrong advices on tips for fuel saving.

1. Fill-up fuel tank in the morning
I have read/heard 1001 times that its best to fill car fuel tank in the early morning while the fuel is cold by making assumption that fuel are more dense at lower temperatures, so a liter of cooler fuel actually has more hydrocarbon molecules than a liter of warmer gasoline.

The fact is: The fuel stored underground has a very large heat sink which temperature is almost constant throughout the day. By touching the fuel pump nozzle while filling up the fuel tank one will feel the temperature - it is warmer than the ambient temperature, in the morning and cooler at midday/afternoon. You dont need a thermometer to measure it.



2. Change air filter often
Maintaining cars is important, but a clean air filter isnt going to save any fuel significantly. Modern engines have computer sensors that automatically adjust the fuel-air mixture as an increasingly clogged air filter chokes off the engines air supply. Of course engine power will decrease slightly as the air filter becomes clogged, but an increase in fuel consumption will be negligible. It takes cost less than the new air filter. Here Im talking on fuel saving - not performance ya.

As far as fuel saving is concerned, installing after market maintenance-free air-filters will do more harm than good [in a long run] to modern engines. Think a second, if it is good enough why not car producers install em in the first place? If u r talking on performance alone, just tune the car without the air filter!

3. Use premium or higher octane fuel
A lot of drivers think because their owners manual recommends premium, theyll get better fuel economy and performance with it. In reality , they may be paying more money for nothing.

Most modern na cars have Programmed Fuel Injection System, for which premium is "recommended" - but not "required" - wont suffer with RON95 or lower octane rating fuel. Modern engine technology comes to the rescue again. When sensors detect regular instead of premium fuel, the system automatically adjusts spark plug [and valve] timing. The result is a slight reduction in peak horsepower - but we never notice.

Always check owners manual before putting anything into your car. And if the car runs badly on RON95, by all means, go back to RON97, or Wee-Power or what_ever.

4. Pump up tires
Of course under-inflated tires are bad for handling and can even cause a crash. Improper tire inflation also causes tires to wear out faster and to heat up more, which could trigger a dangerous high-speed blow-out. Under inflated tires also reduce fuel economy.

So proper inflation is important.
But never over-inflate tires. Theyll get slightly better fuel economy because there will be less tread touching the road, reducing friction. But that means less grip for braking and turning. The added risk of a crash isnt worth the extra km a liter gained.

5. Reduce or do not use aircond.
True, air-conditioning makes extra work for the engine, increasing fuel use. But car air conditioners are much more efficient today than they used to be. Using the aircond will drop fuel economy by about 2 to 3% - to figure out the saving by turning aircond off is gaining around 10km [under RM2] when one drive fom KL to KB but one will pay more on cold drinks!

Meanwhile, driving at higher speeds with the windows down greatly increases aerodynamic drag. As speed increases, drag becomes more of an issue, making air-cond use the more efficient choice at high speeds.

6. Install fuel saving gadget and/or use fuel booster
Before even thinking of a device thats supposed to make car more fuel-efficient ask yourself:

Dont you think oil and car companies arent doing everything they can to beat their competitors?

Car/engine producers are already spending billions of Ringgit if not Dollars to increase fuel efficiency/mileage. If a car producer could make its cars go significantly farther on a liter simply by putting a device into the fuel line, dont think for a second it wouldnt be doing that. Its car sales also would go like goreng pisang panas.

Similarly, if there really was an additive that made fuel burn up more slowly, it would have been bought by major oil companies already and wouldnt be sold through direct selling over the Internet/SMS one bottle at a time. If Brand A fuel company could add something to its fuel that made cars go farther on a liter of fuel, cars would be lining up at the companys pumps and drive right past rivals fuel stations to come back to Brand A for more. Brand A stations could even charge more for their gas and still can sell. Click HERE for additional informations.

Borrowing a phrase from a friends blog...
"kalau nak menurut biar berakal, kalau mengikut biar berilmu..."

frequently visited pages:
|Home|Fuel Consumption|Performance|uncles DIY|Car Size Comparison|

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May 17th, 2010 - The Peugeot Germany teams "200 years" RCZ won the 38th Nürburgring 24 Hours inthe under-2L Diesel category.
To mark the launch of Peugeot RCZ , Peugeot took part in this event for the first time by placing two cars in the competition.
The RCZ took first and third place in the D1T category!

May 16th, 2010 - A Close Encounter of the 4th Kind
I was abducted by the RCZ. What a surprise the actual life size of the coupe. In photographs it seems to be very small...
... it is actually a full scale 2+2! - even larger than BMW E86! In fact it shares platform with the 308 hatch and the new 3008 SUV. So it has a relatively long wheelbase for a coupé.
There is plenty of room up front...

theres even enough space in the rear to carry a couple of reasonably well-developed children...


... and anyone opening the tailgate expecting to find a boot which could barely carry a laptop computer is in for a shock...

the capacity back there is more than 350 litres and whopping 760 liters if the rear seats are folded down.


May 12th, 2010 - RCZ Coming Soon?
Just cant wait any longer....but at last Peugeot is interested in building a car seems to be worth driving. A new THP200 engine has been prepared exclusively for the top-of-the line RCZ.
Peugeot claims it will sprint to 100kph in 7secs, and with lowered, stiffened suspension and an all-new six-speed gearbox there is at least the on-paper promise of a driving experience that has been what Id always wanted but absent from other Peugeots including the 308!
First Drive: 2010 Peugeot RCZ at MOTORTREND


PEUGEOT is giving away one of its new RCZ coupes in an online competition that involves creating an advertisement for yourself on Facebook.
click HERE

read also:
My FINALwords on Peugeot 308 Turbo.

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The Mercury Mountaineer has multiple types of rear windows. The fixed-glass panels at the very back require special tools; these panels are typically handled by trained professionals. It is possible for the vehicle owner to replace the glass in the rear doors. This procedure is very similar to replacing glass in the front doors, but varies depending on the exact year of the vehicle. The biggest variable involves how the glass is mounted within the regulator.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the Mountaineers rear door. Pull off the weather strips in the window slot at the top of the door

2

Pry out the bezel surrounding the inner-door handle using a trim stick. Pry out the control plate in the armrest from its front end, disconnecting its electrical connectors.

3

Remove all of the door trim-panels screws -- the ones in the openings from the removed bezels and the ones along the lower edge -- and then detach the panel from the door. Pull off the plastic water-shield.

4

Reconnect the window controls and adjust the windows position until the bolts or rivets are accessible through the access holes.

5

Unscrew the track bolts with a wrench. Drill out the rivet heads if the window glass uses rivets. Push the remainders through the glass.

6

Tilt the glass forward and lift it out the door. Wear gloves and use caution when dealing with cracked or broken glass.

Installation

7

Lower and slide the replacement glass into the door, fitting it within the glass tracks and window regulator. Fasten it in place with the old bolts or new rivets.

8

Paste the water shield in place, and then reconnect the door trim-panel with its screws. Reconnect the control plate and handle bezel.

9

Lower the window all the way down. Reinstall the weather strips.

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In a larger vehicle, such as the 1995 Mercury Villager, the brake pads typically last 20,000 to 30,000 miles, depending on the style of driving. Heavy hauling of stop-and-go traffic can speed the wear of the pads. It is important to change the brake pads as soon as they wear out, as excessively worn pads can lead to additional brake problems, such as rotor wear, caliper leakage or complete brake failure. Because of this, it is important to check the brake pads at every oil change interval, or if they begin making noise.

Instructions

1

Loosen -- but do not remove -- the front lug nuts, with the ratchet and socket.

2

Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack, and support it with jack stands.

3

Remove the lug nuts, and pull the wheels from the vehicle. Place the lug nuts in a secure area away from your workspace.

4

Look at the rear of the brake caliper, and locate the upper and lower caliper bolts. Loosen and remove the upper and lower caliper bolts, using the ratchet and socket.

5

Pull the caliper away from the brake assembly, and attach it to a suspension component with the bungee strap.

6

Grasp the inner and outer brake pads, and pull them from the brake assembly. Take note of how the brake pads are positioned, as they must be replaced in the same fashion.

7

Place the new brake pads on the brake assembly, in the same fashion the old ones were before removal.

8

Look at the inside portion of the brake caliper. Locate the calipers piston, the metal cylinder inside the caliper.

9

Position the C-clamp over the caliper so the fixed portion is contacting the rear of the caliper body and the screw portion is contacting the caliper piston.

10

Loosen the C-clamp slightly, and slide an old brake pad between the screw portion of the C-clamp and the caliper piston. Tighten the C-clamp to hold the pad in place. This protects the caliper piston from being damaged.

11

Tighten the C-clamp, and observe as the caliper piston begins to slide into the caliper. Continue tightening until the piston stops moving. This creates the clearance needed for the new, thicker, brake pads.

12

Place the caliper over the new brake pads, and hand-tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts.

13

Tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts to 23 to 38 foot-pounds, using the torque wrench and a socket.

14

Repeat steps 4 through 13 for the brake pads on the other side of the vehicle.

15

Place the wheels back on the vehicle, and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

16

Remove the jack stands from under the vehicle, and slowly lower it to the ground.

17

Tighten the lug nuts to 83 to 112 foot-pounds, using the torque wrench and a socket.

18

Press and release the brake pedal repeatedly until it feels firm.

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The Chrysler LeBaron was reintroduced in 1977 after initally being popular in the 1920s. The LeBaron consists of a total of 5 different cars. The 1994 version is a AA-body mid-size sedan. A broken rear window in your 1994 Chrysler LeBaron can give many potential thieves an opportunity to steal important equipment from your vehicle or even steal the vehicle itself. If your rear window becomes damaged or broken you should look to remove it as soon as possible in order to replace it with a new one.

Instructions

1

Use a sharp blade to cut away the rear windows weather-stripping perimeter. The perimeter is a black strip which is found around the outer edge of the window.

2

Enter the back seat of the LeBaron. Carefully press the rear window out of the frame and away from its seal. Have someone on hand outside the vehicle to help lift it out of place.

3

Clean around the edges of the window frame to remove any of the adhesive which is present from the recently removed window.

4

Use a caulk gun to apply a thin layer of urethane caulk around the edges of the new window. Lift the window in to the window frame. Press the window against the frame at the top and bottom to allow a seal to set in place.

5

Leave the LeBaron in a stationary position for 24 hours to allow the window to set firmly in place.

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With the consistently rising price of fuel many will find and try anything to improve the fuel consumption of their cars. Then they come across things like run your car on water, magnetic fuel saver, fuel saving tablets/additives, and many others. Those products claim to save money and give car better performance.

As long as cars have existed, inventors and salesmen have tried to sell fuel saver devices designed to give dramatic gains in fuel economy and power. While most of these devices install easily, and most are relatively inexpensive, the vast majority of these products very rarely meet the promises of their designers. Actually they are pure gimmicks and use false science to describe how they work and many of them will actually cause more problems or even a reduction in car performance and economy.. Dont be fooled.

Some of them are:
Magnets - By attaching to your fuel system it claim to alter the structure of the fuel as it passes through the lines are absolute not true. The explanation are based on false science. Hidro-carbon molecules do not attract to magnet!

Serbo - Is actually a device installed along air intake to ‘swirl’ the air before it enters into the engine, claimed to increase engine power as much as 20%. Do you believe? The fact is Supercharging an engine is a complex modification and is not just another plug and play toy. This is another gimmick and not worth spending the money. Our EP6DT twin scroll turbo in tandem with the ECU already work perfectly under all driving conditions.

Vaporiser/Atomizer - Claims to improve burning efficiency by vaporising the fuel that enters the engine. Probably only works on carburetor engines when it is cold. Fortunately direct fuel injection on our Peugeot 308 engine already have this effect.

Water Power - "wotta powwa" as how the Japanese pronounce. Sounds like Tsu-na-mi , hee.. heee... Basically it is a device that claims to convert water into hydrogen gas and improve the power and efficiency of the engine. Theoretically possible but these devices are at most could barely power an a/cond blower or radiator/condenser cooling fan!

Octane Booster - One should be very careful when using this chemical, as they may be harmful to the engine. True, some products work, but mostly dont. Be careful . In market there are plenty of imitation products. Racing teams have their secret recipe and develop on their own and not for sale.

These devices/chemical which claim to give reduction in fuel consumption may actually even cause potential engine damage or failure.

If you really want to save fuel, just improve your driving habits, choose cost effective route to follow and pump in the right fuel. Remember that who drives where, when and how is the main contributor to fuel saving.

Happy Motoring

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The car had just clocked 50,000km at the end of the 3-yr warranty period.

The car was sent to a regular authorised service center for the scheduled services and to replace certain engine parts under warranty. Upgraded version of firmware from PSA was also loaded at the SC.

Now the lion roars differently...
http://mypeugeot308.blogspot.com/2012/03/lions-roars.html

See also
40,000-km Service
30,000-km Service
20,000-km Service
10,000-km Service

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Air and dirt on the surface of your cars glass can cause the tint on your vehicle to bubble up. While this causes no direct harm to your vehicle, it is unsightly and can be a dangerous distraction while driving. You can have a professional completely replace the tint on the affected window, or save yourself money by removing the bubbles using one of two methods.

Instructions

Puncture the Bubbles

1

Warm the tint on your vehicles windows by placing it in the sun or by using a hair dryer.

2

Spray a small amount of water onto the surface of the window tint. Apply only enough water to lightly dampen the surface.

3

Use the tip of a small sewing needle to puncture a hole in each air bubble. Do not move the needle in any direction, as doing so may cause the tint to rip.

4

Hold the plastic card at a 45-degree angle, and gently work your way over the surface of the tint, starting at a position that is below any bubbles. Work your way over the bubbled areas slowly so you do not risk tearing the tint.

5

Dry the surface of the window with a lint-free cloth. Inspect the tint to ensure the bubbles are gone and that no tearing occurred.

Remove the Tint

6

Dry the surface of the window completely with a lint-free cloth.

7

Melt the adhesive under your window tint by directing the warm air from a hair dryer over the affected area.

8

Gently peel back the corner of the window tint that is closest to the bubbled area. Make sure you remove enough tint that the bubbled area is no longer adhering to the glass.

9

Apply a thin layer of window tint adhesive to the back of the window tinting and place it back onto the surface of the glass.

10

Spray the surface of the window tint lightly with water. Use a squeegee to remove the water and any air under the surface of the tint.

11

Dry the window using a lint-free cloth. Inspect it for the appearance of any bubbles or other damage.

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MYTH: Wider tyres have a larger contact patch than narrow tyres hence better grip.
It is neither tyre width nor aspect ratio [profile] influences the size of the tyres contact area with the road surface. The size of the contact patch is actually determined by the weight on the wheel and the tyre pressure. Wider tyres will shorten contact length hence contributes aquaplaning.

MYTH: A larger contact patch gives more grip
Larger contact patch is irrelevant to better grip. If u understand applied physics [remember Amontons Law, F=uN ? where F is the force generated, u is the coefficient of friction, and N is the weight on the surface considered, i.e the weight on the tyre]

The actual grip that a tyre can achieve is influenced by the coefficient of friction of the rubber compound used in the tyre. The higher the coefficient, the more grip which can be generated.

So its not the tyre width but the compound used that determines the grip [put aside about suspension first - we are only discussing tyres here].

So, why not use narrow high profile tyres then?
The answer to that is heat (we are talking on grip here, not handling). The point is that, to get a contact patch of a certain size on the road, it needs a certain portion of the tyre to be flat. Now, for a narrow tyre, the contact patch will be quite long compared with a wide tyre. This introduces two problems for the tyre.

First, to get that long flat section to give the required contact patch area, the sidewall of the tyre needs to deform quite a lot. This deformation actually causes continuously bending and unbending the rubber of the sidewall as it flattens and then the tread curves again resulting in a lot of heat being generated.

The second relates to the length itself. There will be a greater percentage of the tyre tread in contact with the road than if the contact patch length were shorter; this reduces the amount that the tread can cool. Also, there is a greater percentage of sidewall at any given time that is actually under bending stresses, again resulting in less opportunity to cool. As a result on this increased generation of heat, and the reduced capacity for self cooling, the tyres need to be made of a harder rubber compound that is more able to resist heat. This harder compound will however, have a reduced coefficient of friction hence loosen grip.

FACT: The tyres that are wider can have a softer compound with better frictional properties. Due to the reduced bending stresses, and greater cooling opportunities, the tyre will tend to stay within a narrow temperature range quite consistently, giving greater grip, while reducing the tendency for overheating - hence better performance.

As far as tyre profile is concerned, the main benefit is one of handling - the lower sidewalls give reduced sidewall deformation under lateral loading, which results in improved steering response and a more stable contact patch.

FACT: On the issue of wheel size [the diameter, not the width], it is therefore clear that increasing the wheel/tyre diameter combination is beneficial. The reason for this is that the tyre will not have to deform so much to get the required contact patch length, and the percentage of the tyre tread in contact with the road will be less than for a smaller diameter combination.

What about tyre pressure?
Obviously, tyre pressure plays a very important part, but there are limits also. Too high tyre pressure can damage the carcass. Too low presure will generate massive heat, and have the tyre slipping on the rim.

One issue to consider is that, for wet weather driving [for cars equiped with ABS and ESP - like 308T], in contrary to normal practice, it is better to increase tyre pressure, not reduce it. The reason is that there is a relationship between tyre pressure and the speed at which there is the onset of aquaplaning. The lower the pressure on the road (pressure being a factor of weight and contact area), for a given tyre design, the more likely the car is to aquaplane.

What factors are important in terms of tyre grip?
Tyre width has no direct relation to the amount of grip generated; it is a secondary factor, and the width basically relates to cooling potential and so the tyre compound that can be used. The size of the contact patch has no bearing on the amount of grip generated at all, apart from the extreme of where the compound is getting so hot that it no longer acts as a solid.

The tyre pressure has a bearing on the heating and cooling characteristics of the tyre. Having a lower tyre profile gives improved handling through reduced sidewall stress and improved contact patch shape stability but less resistance to aquaplane.

| HOME | Tyres| Fuel Consumption | Performance |
| uncles DIY |Car Size Comparison | Motoring Myths | RON95 |

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A clear view through the front windshield of any vehicle is a necessity for safe driving. Still, any number of things commonly cause scratches and abrasions in the front windshield that inhibit the drivers view. These slight but consequential marks arent removed with merely washing the windshield. Instead of replacing a costly windshield, some car owners use a polish designed specifically for clearing these marks away. This is not meant for repairing cracks, but for issues such as when the metal of a windshield wiper has scraped a mark.

Instructions

1

Clean the windshield thoroughly, inside and out. Allow it to dry completely.

2

Place masking tape on both sides of the scratch the width of the polishing bob on the inside of the windshield. This is your polishing guide.

3

Place protective covering over any of the vehicles painted and non-glass surfaces that could potentially come into contact with polish. Secure the covering to the vehicle.

4

Soak the felt of the polishing bob in warm water for about a minute. Mix the polishing compound according to its directions. Cover the area to be polished with warm water.

5

Apply polishing compound to the glass. Stay within the lines of the masking tape.

6

Attach the polishing bob to the drill. Polish the area at a speed of about 400 to 600 rpm using the flat end of the polishing bob. Apply even pressure, use a back-and-forth motion and stay within the taped lines.

7

Use a sponge and water to remove any remaining polish. Clean the windshield with glass cleaner. Repeat polishing if necessary.

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Kia Motors has built a reputation for inexpensive automobiles. To compete successfully in the low end of the market Kia vehicles often incorporate cost-saving technologies. As an example, many Kia models make use of drum brakes on the rear wheels. Although generally less effective than disc brakes, drum brakes are less expensive, and in the rear position they do not seriously compromise overall braking performance. Owners of vehicles with rear drum brakes will benefit from understanding how they should be serviced.

Instructions

1

Slacken the lug nuts on both rear wheels with a lug nut wrench. Raise the back end of the vehicle and support it securely with jack stands on both sides. Remove the rear wheels.

2

Unfasten the drums on both rear wheels. The drums will be held on by two or four bolts depending on the model. Pull the drum straight off the hub. If the drum is stuck it can be jacked off by threading two 8 mm jacking bolts into the holes in the drum and evenly tightening both bolts to jack the drum off the hub assembly.

3

Remove the upper return spring by gripping the end of the spring firmly with pliers and unhooking the spring end from the brake shoes. Unhook the other end and set the spring aside. On models with an adjuster mechanism, detach the adjuster lever spring by gripping the spring end firmly with pliers and unhooking it from the adjuster lever. Unhook the other end and set the spring aside. Remove the lower return spring in the same way.

4

On models with an adjuster mechanism, rotate the adjuster wheel clockwise to relieve the lower return spring tension on the brake shoes. Remove the adjuster wheel by sliding it out from in between the two brake shoes.

5

Remove the two hold-down pins that hold each shoe to the backing plate. On models with hold down clips, pull the clips off with pliers and then push the pins out through the backing plate. For other models use a hex wrench or large screwdriver to rotate each pin clockwise until keys on the pin ends line up with the grooves in the hold-down pin clips and then pull the pins out. Pull the hold-down clips out with pliers.

6

Remove the primary brake shoe, then pull out the secondary brake shoe assembly. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the secondary shoe by removing the retaining clip from the cable end and then slipping the cable off the shoe. Use a large screwdriver to spread the operating lever retaining clip, then grasp the clip with pliers and pull it off. Slip the operating lever off the secondary brake shoe.

7

Check the inside diameter of the brake drum at several points using a drum micrometer. The diameter should be the same in all directions, indicating that the drum is round. Check the interior surface of the drum for any deep grooves, cracks or glazed spots. Compare the drum diameter to the manufacturers specifications. Replace the drum if the diameter exceeds the specified maximum, or if it is cracked or irreparably damaged.

8

Clean the backing plate and all removed brake components with brake cleaning fluid. Spray all parts liberally with the fluid and use rags to wipe them down. Use a metal drip pan to catch excess fluid and dispose of the used fluid as required by local regulations.

9

Unscrew the halves of the adjuster wheel, if applicable, and thoroughly clean the threads with brake cleaning fluid. Lubricate the threads with brake grease and reassemble the parts. Apply brake grease to the points where the brake shoes contact the backing plate, the points where the cylinder contacts the brake shoes, and the pivot points at the brake shoe hold-down pins and the operating lever pivot.

10

Reassemble the parts, using new brake shoes, by following the above steps in reverse order. Use the other wheel as a reference on how the parts fit together. Start the vehicle and pump the brakes to set the self-adjusting mechanism. Repeat all steps on the brake on the other side to complete the job, replace the wheels and then lower the automobile.

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The 2001 Ford F-150 ushered in Fords 23rd consecutive year of the best-selling full-sized pickup in the United States. The brakes are all-around disc brakes, which are easy to replace. You should replace the brake pads every three to six months, depending on the quality of the brakes you purchased. Some indicators that the brakes are going bad are a squealing or grinding sound as you drive that gets worse when you use the brakes, or if the brakes "grab" or stop abruptly when you use them.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts with a tire iron 1 rotations counterclockwise. Place some wood blocks in front of the tires you are not removing.

2

Raise the Ford with a floor jack so the truck is high enough for the wheels to come off. Place jack stands underneath the support struts that run along the underside edge of the truck.

3

Remove the lug nuts and lift off the tires.

4

Unbolt the brake caliper mounting bracket, using a socket set. There are only two bolts. After removal, tie the bracket to the undercarriage with twine to prevent strain on the brake line.

5

Remove the brake pads by hand. They should easily slip out.

6

Place a C-clamp on the caliper to compress the caliper. The caliper is the cylinder in the center of the mounting bracket. Continue compressing until the caliper is flush with the mounting bracket.

7

Install the new brake pads. Make sure that the brake material on each pad is facing inward, toward the rotor.

8

Reattach the mounting bracket using its bolts. Put the tire and the lug nuts back on. Lower the truck and tighten the lug nuts.

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Make parking brake adjustments in your Geo Tracker underneath. Save yourself some time and money by making the adjustments at home instead of taking your car to the mechanic. Adjust your parking brakes when your car starts to slip when parked on a slope. Follow different procedures for the different adjustments for your Geo Tracker. Use both of the procedures for all Geo Trackers.

Instructions

Inside Adjustment

1

Remove the center console cover around the parking brake lever. Locate the console on the inside of your Geo Tracker between the drivers seat and the front passenger side seat.

2

Adjust the adjuster nut, located at the end of the cable sticking out of the back console of the parking brake lever. Use your pliers to turn the adjuster nut.

3

Test the parking brake lever by pulling up on the lever until it clicks three to eight notches. Use your pliers to tighten the adjuster nut. Replace the center console cover.

Underneath Adjustment

4

Raise your Geo Metro rear wheels using the jack and support the rear wheels with the jack stands.

5

Adjust the adjuster nut holding the wire covered cables coming from each rear wheel. Move the adjuster nut with your screwdriver until the cables are tight.

6

Lower your Geo Metro using the jack and remove the jack stands from each rear wheel.

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The front brake rotors on the Ford Taurus models are the main parts that the brake pads press against to bring the Taurus to a stop. Once the brakes are applied, the cylinder inside of the brake caliper compresses against the brake pads. The brake pads then compress against the brake rotor to stop the car. Once the brake pads wear down, they will leave grooves inside of the brake rotors and the brake rotors will need to be replaced.

Instructions

1

Park the Ford Taurus on a level surface and shut the engine off. Set the emergency brake and open the hood.

2

Unscrew the cap to the brake fluid reservoir and set it in a safe place.

3

Jack up the front of the Ford Taurus and put the jack stands behind each front tire along the frame rail of the Ford Taurus. Lower the Taurus onto the jack stands. Inspect to make sure that the Taurus is sitting securely and evenly under the frame rails.

4

Remove the driver side front tire with the lug wrench. Turn the lug nuts counter-clockwise to loosen and remove the lug nuts.

5

Slide the wheel off of the wheel hub and set the wheel to the side.

6

Remove the two upper and lower 12mm caliper mounting bolts in the rear of the caliper with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and a 12mm socket. Turn the bolts counter-clockwise to loosen and remove.

7

Slide the flat head screwdriver into the top rear of the brake caliper and pry the rear brake pad inward. This will compress the caliper cylinder and allow you to slide the caliper off of the brake rotor.

8

Slide the brake caliper straight off of the top of the brake rotor. Hang the brake caliper to the front coil spring with a bungee cord to keep the caliper from hanging by the brake line.

9

Put on the safety glasses to keep any debris and trash from getting into your eyes when hammering. Tap the rear of the brake rotor with the rubber mallet all the way around the rotor until the rotor loosens from the hub. Slide the front rotor straight off of the hub.

10

Line the new rotor up with the lugs on the hub and slide the rotor straight onto the hub. Slide the caliper back over the top of the brake rotor.

11

Screw the two upper and lower 12mm caliper mounting bolts back into the rear of the brake caliper. Tighten these two bolts very tight with the 1/2 inch drive ratchet and 12mm socket.

12

Slide the wheel back onto the hub and screw the lug nuts back onto the lugs. Tighten the lug nuts by turning the lug nuts clockwise with the lug wrench. Follow these same steps for replacing the front brake rotors on the front passenger side of the Taurus.

13

Jack the Taurus up and remove the jack stands. Lower the Taurus to the ground.

14

Add DOT-3 brake fluid to the brake fluid reservoir if needed. Screw the cap back onto the brake fluid reservoir and close the hood.

15

Crank the Taurus and pump the brakes until you feel the brakes get tight. Pumping the brakes will compress the brake pads back to the original distance from the brake rotor. Turn the engine off. Job complete.

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Sticks and stones and just plain old age can be enough to make you want to remove the windshields from your car to replace the seal or the glass itself. The process of removing windshields is surprisingly simple and requires little in the way of specialized tools. All the tools you need are readily available at your local auto-parts store.

Instructions

1

Cover the windshield with a large towel to protect it while you are working. Slide the metal end of the trim removal tool under the stainless-steel trim of the windshield. What you cannot see is that beneath the trim there are clips holding it in place. Work the tool under the trim until one of the hooks on the end of the tool catches one of the clips. When you feel this, gently pull the tool toward the center of the windshield. When the clip opens you will hear a popping noise. Repeat this all the way around the windshield until all the clips holding the trim in place have been opened. Some front windshields are held in place with small screws; these can be seen easily. Remove the screws. Once the clips are opened or the screws removed, take the trim off the car, being careful not to bend it.

2

Cut the butyl window seal off the exterior of the window with a utility knife. Dont be concerned about removing this in one piece; if you install a replacement windshield you will need to put a new butyl seal in place.

3




Insert the 90-degree blade of the cold knife into the channel between the frame of the car and the windshield. Turn the handle so the blade rotates under the windshield and cuts into the butyl seal between the frame and thickness of the glass. Always holding the handle of the cold knife straight up from the surface of the glass, pull the cold knife by the T-handle smoothly and steadily around the entire window.

4

Sit in the car. The windshield is being supported by frame rests, so you dont have to worry about it falling on top of you. Push outward on the glass at the top near the center, put the wood between the glass and frame to hold the gap and go back around to the outside of the car.

5

Grasp the edge of the glass in the gap and pull it out and away from the frame of the car to remove the windshield.

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I take one day off today to send my spouses Peugeot 206 for free warranty inspection and replacement of defective parts and recalled items. Free part replacement includes AL-4 gear box solenoid valves, Air-Filter housing, Front Suspension Mounting, PS reservoir cover etc.... [not a single sen was charged even the car was also throughly washed and cleaned, cho-mey llo-teng! ma-che ni la kito nok]

While waiting for the car to be ready I took time loitering around the showroom at the "3S Blue-Box" appreciating the Babylon Red CKD-Peugeot 308 THP [click-on the picture for higher_resolution image]


THE EXTERIOR

Oops! the aluminium bonnet is not properly closed.

EXTERIOR CLOSEUP

Muscular 225/45 R17 Continental Sports Contact tyres

THE ENGINE
Powered by BMW EP6-DT 1.6liter Twin-Cam 16-valve Hi-Pressure Turbo Engine detuned to 140hp/240Nm.





THE INTERIOR

Rear passengers like the seat. It is higher than any Japs, Koreans and Local equivalents - even compare with rear seats in their 2.0 liter sedans.







I was informed that all CKD Peugeot 308s cannot be registered yet because it is still NOT available in JPJ database as of today [?]
Oh!..PENANTIAN itu adalah satu PENYIKSAAN...

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It is on the thresholds, an important turning point in the destiny. The lion tamers are becoming more aware of the potential of their beasts...
Some of the lions are roaring in sheeps skin on light dose of steroid now... i.e by installing either a modified engine ECU map or fixing an interceptor box . It is proven to achieve around a 25% in power [bhp], and in torque [Nm] of around 30% . The large increases in both power and torque greatly improve the engine flexibility in all gears and throughout the rev range for better pickuping power.

Why need steroids
Peugeot 308 Turbos are distributed throughout the world, probably PSA adopts a one map fits all policy, who knows?. This one map takes into account many different factors that are necessary for each export country. Areas such as climate, emissions, fuel quality etc all have to be considered and sacrifying a certain degree of performance by the manufacturer.

What does this means?
It simply means that 308 140THP ECU is never optimised for one individual situation. Loosing some to gain some. Buyers have different priority. Some need performance, some need fuel economy while majority fall in between.

Todays modern engines rely heavily on computer controlled engine management systems. Basically each engine has an array of sensors which monitor lots of things such as throttle position, crank position, airflow etc. These signals are sent to the ECU which processes the information received to give the best engine performance for any given driving condition.

ECU remapping (such as UPsolute Chiptuning) or/and interceptor (such as PTronic) is basically to fine tuning by rewriting or overiding the software program that controls ECU or altering the input informations from various sensors before sending them to the ECU. Most reputable companies use bespoke maps that are tailored to the car and individual requirements.

I still remember multivariable inputs, non-linear systems, fuzzy logic, neural-networking, etc in systems engineering which I learned almost two decades ago. Only now I have better understandaing how they are applied to our daily life.

ACHTUNG!
There are many individuals out there offering what seem like cheap ECU remapping services. Most of these people use common maping programmes that are available through the internet and are NOT tailored to 308 140THP and individual requirements. These can actually damage the engine as they are not specifically written/programmed to the unique EP6DT prince engine.

Before remapping the ECU or installing the interceptor box a full diagnostics check of the engine should be carried out to identify if there are any potential problems.

Please be aware that, although remapping/chipping an ECU does not cause failure it can exasperate already failing components. In order to assure a quality ECU remapping service the company should not carry out work on the engine that is found to be faulty. If faults shown up by the diagnostic process DO NOT proceed with the upgrade!

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Car Size Comparison | Motoring Myths | RON95 |

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Ways to save money are all around us, we just have to be open to using them. Finding ways to cut back on spending is sometimes as simple as examining our habits. Choose one part of your budget and find new ways to save money, then move on to another category. Soon all aspects of your budget will be adding more money to your savings account.

Use a few of these ideas to save big on your automobile travel.

[1] Slow it down.

Studies have shown that the faster you go the more gasoline your vehicle will use. Lower your speed to put savings in your pocket.

[2] Use your brakes less.

Less speed is one way of cutting down on using your brakes, avoid tailgating is another. Not only do you burn more gasoline each time you use your vehicles brakes, you also ware out the brake pads faster, too.

[3] Do regular maintenance on your vehicle

Keeping your filters, belts and tires in the best condition can make a big difference in the fuel use of your vehicle.

[4] Do not let your vehicle sit and idle

If you know you are going to be stopped for more than 30-60 seconds,[not counting time waiting at signal lights] turn your motor off. The motor only needs about 5 seconds of fuel to restart, anything over that is wasting fuel and your money.

[5] Check for alternate routes

If you travel the same route to work or events, look for other routes. Sometimes we can find shorter routes or less fuel use ways. Look for routes with less signal lights, pot holes or hills to climb. All these things cause you to use more fuel. Saving one dollar a day is 365 dollars in a year. Do this with 5 different everyday events and you will have saved $1825.00 in one year.

[6] Lighten the Load

All of us carry little used items in our vehicles. Unload them, put them in the garage, where they belong. Every extra pound of weight you carry in your vehicle, adds to your fuel cost.

[7] Roll down the windows

Air conditioning can account for 25% of your fuel cost. For slow city travel, roll down the drivers window a few inches and the back passenger window on the opposite side for increased air flow. When going faster, close the windows and turn on the ventilation fan. Only use your vehicles air conditioner on high heat days.

Using one or several of these suggestions will not only lead to more money in your budget but less ware and tare on your vehicle, allowing it to last longer before it needs replacing, thus meaning more savings.

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Anti-lock brake systems (ABS) are hydraulic pressure systems used in vehicles provide even braking pressure. When air bubbles form within a vehicles ABS, however, braking reliability is reduced. Unlike brake fluid, air is compressible, which can cause the system to underperform. When this occurs, the vehicles ABS must be bled to preserve operational integrity.

Instructions

How to Bleed an ABS System

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.

2

Jack up one of the rear wheels. Using the lug wrench on the tire iron, remove the wheel that is off of the ground.

3

Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Fill the reservoir with fluid, and replace the cap.

4

Locate the bleeder valve. Depending on the make of the vehicle, the valve may be on the caliper or wheel cylinder.

5

Place a small plastic hose on the bleeder valve. Place the other end of the hose into the plastic container. Fill the container with around two inches of brake fluid, to prevent air from re-entering the ABS while you are bleeding the line.

6

Ask an assistant to sit in the drivers seat. Instruct them to depress the brake pedal. Turn the bleeder valve a quarter of a turn. When the fluid stops flowing from the line, close the valve and instruct them to let pressure off of the pedal.

7

Repeat this process until clean fluid flows. Periodically the brake fluid level in the reservoir, ensuring that some remains at all times.

8

Repeat this process with the other rear bleeder valve, followed by the two front valves.

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