May 17th, 2010 - The Peugeot Germany teams "200 years" RCZ won the 38th Nürburgring 24 Hours inthe under-2L Diesel category.
To mark the launch of Peugeot RCZ , Peugeot took part in this event for the first time by placing two cars in the competition.
The RCZ took first and third place in the D1T category!

May 16th, 2010 - A Close Encounter of the 4th Kind
I was abducted by the RCZ. What a surprise the actual life size of the coupe. In photographs it seems to be very small...
... it is actually a full scale 2+2! - even larger than BMW E86! In fact it shares platform with the 308 hatch and the new 3008 SUV. So it has a relatively long wheelbase for a coupé.
There is plenty of room up front...

theres even enough space in the rear to carry a couple of reasonably well-developed children...


... and anyone opening the tailgate expecting to find a boot which could barely carry a laptop computer is in for a shock...

the capacity back there is more than 350 litres and whopping 760 liters if the rear seats are folded down.


May 12th, 2010 - RCZ Coming Soon?
Just cant wait any longer....but at last Peugeot is interested in building a car seems to be worth driving. A new THP200 engine has been prepared exclusively for the top-of-the line RCZ.
Peugeot claims it will sprint to 100kph in 7secs, and with lowered, stiffened suspension and an all-new six-speed gearbox there is at least the on-paper promise of a driving experience that has been what Id always wanted but absent from other Peugeots including the 308!
First Drive: 2010 Peugeot RCZ at MOTORTREND


PEUGEOT is giving away one of its new RCZ coupes in an online competition that involves creating an advertisement for yourself on Facebook.
click HERE

read also:
My FINALwords on Peugeot 308 Turbo.

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The Mercury Mountaineer has multiple types of rear windows. The fixed-glass panels at the very back require special tools; these panels are typically handled by trained professionals. It is possible for the vehicle owner to replace the glass in the rear doors. This procedure is very similar to replacing glass in the front doors, but varies depending on the exact year of the vehicle. The biggest variable involves how the glass is mounted within the regulator.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the Mountaineers rear door. Pull off the weather strips in the window slot at the top of the door

2

Pry out the bezel surrounding the inner-door handle using a trim stick. Pry out the control plate in the armrest from its front end, disconnecting its electrical connectors.

3

Remove all of the door trim-panels screws -- the ones in the openings from the removed bezels and the ones along the lower edge -- and then detach the panel from the door. Pull off the plastic water-shield.

4

Reconnect the window controls and adjust the windows position until the bolts or rivets are accessible through the access holes.

5

Unscrew the track bolts with a wrench. Drill out the rivet heads if the window glass uses rivets. Push the remainders through the glass.

6

Tilt the glass forward and lift it out the door. Wear gloves and use caution when dealing with cracked or broken glass.

Installation

7

Lower and slide the replacement glass into the door, fitting it within the glass tracks and window regulator. Fasten it in place with the old bolts or new rivets.

8

Paste the water shield in place, and then reconnect the door trim-panel with its screws. Reconnect the control plate and handle bezel.

9

Lower the window all the way down. Reinstall the weather strips.

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In a larger vehicle, such as the 1995 Mercury Villager, the brake pads typically last 20,000 to 30,000 miles, depending on the style of driving. Heavy hauling of stop-and-go traffic can speed the wear of the pads. It is important to change the brake pads as soon as they wear out, as excessively worn pads can lead to additional brake problems, such as rotor wear, caliper leakage or complete brake failure. Because of this, it is important to check the brake pads at every oil change interval, or if they begin making noise.

Instructions

1

Loosen -- but do not remove -- the front lug nuts, with the ratchet and socket.

2

Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack, and support it with jack stands.

3

Remove the lug nuts, and pull the wheels from the vehicle. Place the lug nuts in a secure area away from your workspace.

4

Look at the rear of the brake caliper, and locate the upper and lower caliper bolts. Loosen and remove the upper and lower caliper bolts, using the ratchet and socket.

5

Pull the caliper away from the brake assembly, and attach it to a suspension component with the bungee strap.

6

Grasp the inner and outer brake pads, and pull them from the brake assembly. Take note of how the brake pads are positioned, as they must be replaced in the same fashion.

7

Place the new brake pads on the brake assembly, in the same fashion the old ones were before removal.

8

Look at the inside portion of the brake caliper. Locate the calipers piston, the metal cylinder inside the caliper.

9

Position the C-clamp over the caliper so the fixed portion is contacting the rear of the caliper body and the screw portion is contacting the caliper piston.

10

Loosen the C-clamp slightly, and slide an old brake pad between the screw portion of the C-clamp and the caliper piston. Tighten the C-clamp to hold the pad in place. This protects the caliper piston from being damaged.

11

Tighten the C-clamp, and observe as the caliper piston begins to slide into the caliper. Continue tightening until the piston stops moving. This creates the clearance needed for the new, thicker, brake pads.

12

Place the caliper over the new brake pads, and hand-tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts.

13

Tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts to 23 to 38 foot-pounds, using the torque wrench and a socket.

14

Repeat steps 4 through 13 for the brake pads on the other side of the vehicle.

15

Place the wheels back on the vehicle, and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

16

Remove the jack stands from under the vehicle, and slowly lower it to the ground.

17

Tighten the lug nuts to 83 to 112 foot-pounds, using the torque wrench and a socket.

18

Press and release the brake pedal repeatedly until it feels firm.

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The Chrysler LeBaron was reintroduced in 1977 after initally being popular in the 1920s. The LeBaron consists of a total of 5 different cars. The 1994 version is a AA-body mid-size sedan. A broken rear window in your 1994 Chrysler LeBaron can give many potential thieves an opportunity to steal important equipment from your vehicle or even steal the vehicle itself. If your rear window becomes damaged or broken you should look to remove it as soon as possible in order to replace it with a new one.

Instructions

1

Use a sharp blade to cut away the rear windows weather-stripping perimeter. The perimeter is a black strip which is found around the outer edge of the window.

2

Enter the back seat of the LeBaron. Carefully press the rear window out of the frame and away from its seal. Have someone on hand outside the vehicle to help lift it out of place.

3

Clean around the edges of the window frame to remove any of the adhesive which is present from the recently removed window.

4

Use a caulk gun to apply a thin layer of urethane caulk around the edges of the new window. Lift the window in to the window frame. Press the window against the frame at the top and bottom to allow a seal to set in place.

5

Leave the LeBaron in a stationary position for 24 hours to allow the window to set firmly in place.

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With the consistently rising price of fuel many will find and try anything to improve the fuel consumption of their cars. Then they come across things like run your car on water, magnetic fuel saver, fuel saving tablets/additives, and many others. Those products claim to save money and give car better performance.

As long as cars have existed, inventors and salesmen have tried to sell fuel saver devices designed to give dramatic gains in fuel economy and power. While most of these devices install easily, and most are relatively inexpensive, the vast majority of these products very rarely meet the promises of their designers. Actually they are pure gimmicks and use false science to describe how they work and many of them will actually cause more problems or even a reduction in car performance and economy.. Dont be fooled.

Some of them are:
Magnets - By attaching to your fuel system it claim to alter the structure of the fuel as it passes through the lines are absolute not true. The explanation are based on false science. Hidro-carbon molecules do not attract to magnet!

Serbo - Is actually a device installed along air intake to ‘swirl’ the air before it enters into the engine, claimed to increase engine power as much as 20%. Do you believe? The fact is Supercharging an engine is a complex modification and is not just another plug and play toy. This is another gimmick and not worth spending the money. Our EP6DT twin scroll turbo in tandem with the ECU already work perfectly under all driving conditions.

Vaporiser/Atomizer - Claims to improve burning efficiency by vaporising the fuel that enters the engine. Probably only works on carburetor engines when it is cold. Fortunately direct fuel injection on our Peugeot 308 engine already have this effect.

Water Power - "wotta powwa" as how the Japanese pronounce. Sounds like Tsu-na-mi , hee.. heee... Basically it is a device that claims to convert water into hydrogen gas and improve the power and efficiency of the engine. Theoretically possible but these devices are at most could barely power an a/cond blower or radiator/condenser cooling fan!

Octane Booster - One should be very careful when using this chemical, as they may be harmful to the engine. True, some products work, but mostly dont. Be careful . In market there are plenty of imitation products. Racing teams have their secret recipe and develop on their own and not for sale.

These devices/chemical which claim to give reduction in fuel consumption may actually even cause potential engine damage or failure.

If you really want to save fuel, just improve your driving habits, choose cost effective route to follow and pump in the right fuel. Remember that who drives where, when and how is the main contributor to fuel saving.

Happy Motoring

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The car had just clocked 50,000km at the end of the 3-yr warranty period.

The car was sent to a regular authorised service center for the scheduled services and to replace certain engine parts under warranty. Upgraded version of firmware from PSA was also loaded at the SC.

Now the lion roars differently...
http://mypeugeot308.blogspot.com/2012/03/lions-roars.html

See also
40,000-km Service
30,000-km Service
20,000-km Service
10,000-km Service

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Air and dirt on the surface of your cars glass can cause the tint on your vehicle to bubble up. While this causes no direct harm to your vehicle, it is unsightly and can be a dangerous distraction while driving. You can have a professional completely replace the tint on the affected window, or save yourself money by removing the bubbles using one of two methods.

Instructions

Puncture the Bubbles

1

Warm the tint on your vehicles windows by placing it in the sun or by using a hair dryer.

2

Spray a small amount of water onto the surface of the window tint. Apply only enough water to lightly dampen the surface.

3

Use the tip of a small sewing needle to puncture a hole in each air bubble. Do not move the needle in any direction, as doing so may cause the tint to rip.

4

Hold the plastic card at a 45-degree angle, and gently work your way over the surface of the tint, starting at a position that is below any bubbles. Work your way over the bubbled areas slowly so you do not risk tearing the tint.

5

Dry the surface of the window with a lint-free cloth. Inspect the tint to ensure the bubbles are gone and that no tearing occurred.

Remove the Tint

6

Dry the surface of the window completely with a lint-free cloth.

7

Melt the adhesive under your window tint by directing the warm air from a hair dryer over the affected area.

8

Gently peel back the corner of the window tint that is closest to the bubbled area. Make sure you remove enough tint that the bubbled area is no longer adhering to the glass.

9

Apply a thin layer of window tint adhesive to the back of the window tinting and place it back onto the surface of the glass.

10

Spray the surface of the window tint lightly with water. Use a squeegee to remove the water and any air under the surface of the tint.

11

Dry the window using a lint-free cloth. Inspect it for the appearance of any bubbles or other damage.

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